El Bolsón

El Bolsón needs 2 days: the craft fair at the main square, with regional products and craft beer -declared of provincial interest in 2003- on one, the climb up Cerro Piltriquitrón, with valley views and a forest carved with tree-trunk sculptures, on the other. December-March is best. It's cheaper than Bariloche, 130 km away. It self-proclaimed itself an «ecological and nuclear-free municipality» in 1984, long before environmentalism was mainstream in Argentina, and its 1970s countercultural community laid the groundwork for the country's most established craft beer culture.