Trastevere

Rome's most bohemian neighborhood, across the Tiber river, with cobblestone alleys, ochre facades covered in ivy, and a local life that has survived the historic center's mass tourism. By day it's a calm walk past churches and artisan workshops; by night it fills with family-run trattorias and bars with tables spilling onto the street. This is everyday Rome, the one that never makes it onto Colosseum postcards.